Dubai Drift

It's a pretty gloomy and rainy autumn, pandemic restrictions are tightening again (in other words, everything sucks), and my craving for warmth is hitting its peak. I say to my girlfriend: “Let’s go to Dubai.” It’s something you just have to experience at least once in your life.

At the end of October, we make plans, get all the necessary tests done, and four days later — after a crammed 6.5-hour flight on AirBaltic — we have breakfast at our Dubai hotel, CANAL CENTRAL. My head feels foggy, even though we relaxed beforehand in Rīga Airport’s Primeclass Lounge; the flight itself was brutal, and I'm certainly not someone who can sleep on a plane. But the warm air, flowers, and palm trees bring me back to myself.

After breakfast we finally check in. From our room window there's a view of the canal, and from the pool — renowned BURJ KHALIFH. I dive into the pool (actually on the hotel rooftop) while my riend checks the internet and does a bit of work. It’s been about a month and a bit since I recovered from my first “COVID tour,” so I’m not up for huge activities. The main goal is simply to rest and enjoy.

In the evening, I book a Thai massage right at the hotel, because I feel like I've been run over by a log truck, and then a plane landed on me. The masseuse does an amazing job, even if it feels like my bones are being twisted in all directions — I feel like I even switch off at times. After the massage, all I can do is shuffle to the elevator, collapse into the bed in our room, and we say: “See you tomorrow, Dubai.”

I won’t elaborate too much on the gastronomic delights—just know that the hotel breakfasts were wonderful every single day, with such a selection—sigh…

Mornings are leisurely, spent by the pool with mojitos. Tonight we’re going to DUBAI OPERA. Unfortunately, during our stay there was no opera in the repertoire, so we bought tickets in advance for a concert. The opera house is everything you'd expect: red carpet, gold, a massive chandelier from floor to ceiling in the Grand Circle Foyer, and a pianist playing in the foyer before the concert.

We have VIP tickets in row six, with a drink included (and by the way, you’re allowed to bring drinks into the hall). Nice! Some dry facts: the main hall seats 2,000, covers 60,386.98 m², and opened on August 31, 2016. Its curved transparent glass facade allows passers-by to see inside, and visitors inside—from the rooftop terrace and restaurant—can enjoy panoramic views of downtown Dubai. You can read more on the opera's official website (check previous column).

The next morning we head to Abu Dhabi. Visiting the Louvre Abu Dhabi has been on my bucket list for a long time, and today that dream will come true. On the way we stop at a place that makes me feel like I’ve walked onto a movie set: if you’re a fan of ''Mad Max'', ''LAST EXIT MAD X'' is definitely a pit stop worth making when traveling from Dubai to Abu Dhabi—grab a coffee, have a bite, and feel like Mad Max himself.

And then — Louvre Abu Dhabi. It's cosmic! At least for me, it’s a feast for the eyes. The drive took about an hour and a half, and our guide mentioned there’s a planned railway that will take you from Dubai to Abu Dhabi in just 15 minutes. I absolutely believe it —everything in the UAE is about being “the biggest, the fastest, the tallest, the brightest,” etc. Everyone has their thing, right?

But the Louvre… Whoa. I could’ve spent a whole day there. Sure, my museum-ceiling obsession is obvious, but look at how those beams of light fall — amazing! Designed by famous French architect Jean Nouvel. Due to time constraints I zipped through the galleries — though I would have loved to study, observe, and photograph the building —and simply sit in quiet appreciation.

Some dry stats: the project comes from a 2007 agreement between France and the UAE; it opened with French President Emmanuel Macron and Abu Dhabi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Zayed Al Nahyan in attendance. The permanent collection has about 600 artworks, half on loan from France. For the naming rights to use “Louvre” for 30 years, France was paid 400 million euros. The building has 55 rooms, each unique.

One more stop in Abu Dhabi: SHEIKH ZAYED MOSQUE. My personal wonder of the world and the third-largest mosque globally.

Here are the numbers: located on a small hill, covering 22,000 m², built from marble, with four 107‑meter minarets, 82 domes of various sizes, 1,048 columns inlaid with precious and semi‑precious stones outside, and 96 inside. The main prayer hall features seven massive crystal chandeliers—10 m long, 10 m wide, weighing nine tons each—and the world’s largest Persian carpet: 6,000 m², woven by 1,200 Iranian women, valued at over $8.5 million.

Without sunglasses, it's almost impossible to be outside, considering the intense brightness and snow-white mosque.

A new day, a new plan: today we visit the tallest and largest observation wheel in the world AIN DUBAI. 250 m tall, with 48 cabins, carrying up to 1,750 people. I have to say —it didn’t deliver a massive “wow” moment, but the view was still great. We could see BURJ AL ARAB, ATLANTIS THE ROYAL and ATLANTIS THE PALM, the stark desert beyond the skyscrapers, the luxury life below, and stretches of the Persian Gulf.

If you’re on Palm Jumeirah, tours by helicopter start around €180 for 12 minutes; you can see the city for about €400 in 25 minutes — something we regretted not doing.

Another day, another adventure. I messed up and didn’t pre-book a spot at one of the lovely beach clubs, DRIFT. You know how it goes — I thought, “Come on, it’s a weekday morning, surely it won’t be packed.” First of all — it was. Second, the guard wouldn’t even let us into the reception without a reservation. I quickly made one on my phone, but the only option available was a cabana for €200 per person (with a bottle of house wine). My friend, however, she literally dragged me away by force, saying we’ll survive without it. I was in a pretty grumpy mood at that moment, but fine — let it be. OK, if it’s not meant to be, it’s not.

We checked the map for something else nearby. Found another beach club, but we weren’t exactly sure how to get there. We wandered along the beach, took a swim (instantly turning into salt goddesses), I snapped a bunch of beach photos of my girlfriend, and we kept dodging through the resort territory — casually tracking the movements of hotel staff with our peripheral vision — until it became clear: time to vanish.

From DRIFT to our hypothetical destination, it was supposedly just under 2 km, but since we weren’t confident about the direction, and had been sneaking through private beach property (slightly nerve-wracking), we eventually made it out through the grounds of THE PALACE OF ONE&ONLY ROYAL MIRAGE and almost reached the street. At that point, we were both pretty irritated, tired, and craving a cold drink.

Just as we were about to give up, ready to call a taxi and head back to the hotel, we finally spotted the entrance to BARASTI BEACH CLUB. Oh my god — how little it takes to feel joy. We rushed into the pool like monkeys, but not before ordering big, delicious mojitos (surprisingly affordable), and spent at least an hour just floating there.

Security wouldn’t allow photos (not even of ourselves), so I only managed a picture of the drink. Day saved. We called a taxi and headed back to the hotel.

In the evening we set off for a show called LA PERLE, which I’d booked after discovering it online. Our hotel is just 1.5 km away—a peaceful walk along the canal promenade. And wow — am I ever impressed. Jaw-dropping production: acrobats, music, storytelling, stunts. I literally sat with my mouth agape trying to figure out how it's all built. I only took phone photos and videos, so you’ll have to check out the show’s website or social media — they’re that stunning. Easily my second “wow” moment after the Abu Dhabi Louvre. And don’t even ask where all that water goes or how performers pop back out — this is a must see!

Of course, we also strolled through DUBAI MALL o see the famous fountains. The mall was interesting — from ultra-luxury brands to "everyday" stores. I won't bore you with wandering through shops — I prefer people-watching. I bought a sunglasses chain (still wearing it — cute and quality). We watched the fountain show two nights from different vantage points — not too shabby. We had no interest in going up the tower (I've seen the view before), so instead we just enjoyed warm evenings.

EXPO. Finally taking place this year after all the postponements. Since 1851, EXPO is a global expo where countries showcase science and tech milestones, share knowledge, and foster international understanding. Rumor has it securing hosting rights nowadays is as competitive as the Olympics. Twenty-five million visitors, over 190 countries, and at least 60 events daily.

We allotted only one day for the EXPO. It’s huuuuge (see screenshot in the gallery). Divided into four color zones, with a user-friendly app. But soon we stopped rushing and started just savoring the vibe — admiring pavilion architecture, grabbing cold white wine at an outdoor terrace above the main pavilion, and enjoying a live concert.

We tried Garden in the Sky (you can take a 360° virtual tour online). We visited UAE pavilion (check it out in the link — it gives a sense of the atmosphere), Luxembourg’s (lovely outdoor restaurant), Russia’s (interesting design), and missed Saudi Arabia’s pavilion just before it closed, though we caught some exterior shots.

We stopped by the Latvian pavilion. The first floor felt dark and dull despite the tech displays, but the second made me cringe — it seemed like there was no budget or there was no taste — it felt like a traveling-market booth. Still, big respect to the dedicated team working there. People have written a lot already about EXPO, so I won’t repeat it all.

Farewell. My final joy moment of the trip was discovering the perfect vantage point we’d pre-researched via deduction and Google: the small side balcony at SHANGRI-LA, offering one of Dubai’s most iconic views. I stood exactly where the woman in the hotel’s website photo stands—in a red dress. Unfortunately, I was travelling with only one lens—a Canon 50 mm 1.4—so capturing a wide-angle “wow” shot was tricky, but I still got a souvenir. You need a reservation and let-down fee to access the rooftop, but that fee can be used in the rooftop restaurant—and that’s exactly where we enjoyed cocktails overlooking Burj Khalifa.

Would I go again? Absolutely. I loved it, it was fascinating, and there’s so much I didn’t get to see.

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Some things we missed, and a few you can still do (note: most places require a reservation in advance):

CELAVI – a fantastic rooftop pool, but you can check out their full offering [here] and choose what suits your heart, budget, and location best.

DUBAI MIRACLE GARDEN – great fun for both kids and adults.

SKI DUBAI - – located inside Dubai Mall.

Practical info:

We mostly used the local app CAREEM, and also compared prices with Uber. In general, taxi services are very affordable. For peace of mind, I had pre-booked a transfer from the airport, but honestly, you can just grab a taxi—prices are quite similar. Very clean cars, polite and careful drivers—felt completely safe the whole trip.We didn’t use the metro since it wasn’t close by, but from what I’ve heard, it’s a comfortable and safe way to get around.

This time, I booked the whole trip (hotel, transfers, and flights) through a travel agency—which I normally never do—so big thanks to Baiba and her colleague from BTG. Everything was simply wonderful!

Honestly, if I ever travel to the Emirates again, I’ll 100% take a flight with a layover. The direct flight was super long and uncomfortable (sorry, AirBaltic, but this is basically long-haul distance, and the plane felt more like a short hop to Paris). Also, there was no proper service onboard. Just what you’d expect from a "budget" national airline—not in price, but in experience.

In November, the weather is perfect for sunbathing, swimming, and wandering around. You can find accommodation ranging from simple to ultra-luxury.Alcohol is available in hotel bars, restaurants, and beach clubs.