Is Paris Just the Eiffel Tower, Fashion Week, and Baguettes?

I bet that’s the association most people have when they hear the word "Paris." I haven’t been to Paris many times—about nine, I think—but for a long time, this city was synonymous with "endless romance" and that famous iron structure: the Eiffel Tower. I must confess, I delayed my trip to Paris precisely because of all that exaggerated romance and couples everywhere; I just wasn’t in the mood for clichés. So, I finally made my way to Paris relatively late in my travel-filled life, only in 2015, and with my girlfriends.

And quite paradoxically, I still haven’t been to the top of the Eiffel Tower because it just doesn’t seem necessary. But who knows? Everything has its time in life.

But yes, the reasons for this trip were all about fashion. One of them was visiting the Dolce&Gabbana “Du Cœur à la Main”. A little backtracking in time: last summer, I couldn’t manage everything and had to choose between Dolce’s exhibition in Milan and Vincent Peters' photo exhibition in Rome. I opted for the latter, and I don’t regret it for a second (for anyone even slightly into photography, I recommend following him and, if possible, visiting his exhibitions at vincentpetersstudio.com).

But back to the brilliant Italian designers—Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana—and their exhibition, which started in Milan and then traveled to the fashion capital, Paris (Grand Palais, Paris, January 10 – April 2, 2025). I want to reassure those who are disappointed that the exhibition is over; the good news is (remember, it’s TRAVELING) that from May 14 to August 13, the exhibition will be in Rome. And as they say, "all roads lead to Rome," or you can take AirBaltic to Charles de Gaulle Airport, with flights every day, or Ryanair to Beauvais Airport (just remember that after the Olympics, the shuttle bus now goes to Saint Denis University instead of Port Maillot, making this flight less appealing than before) twice a week, on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

Now, a bit of "dry statistics"—the exhibition showcases over 200 haute couture outfits and 300 handcrafted accessories, including pieces inspired by Sicilian ceramics and Murano glass. Ten thematic rooms reflect the richness of Italian culture—from opera and baroque to folklore and architecture. The garments stand out with exquisite lace embroidery and gilded appliqués.

A special highlight: during the exhibition, live demonstrations take place where seamstresses from the Milan atelier showcase the haute couture creation process, emphasizing the importance of craftsmanship in modern fashion. However, these words and descriptions don’t convey at all what awaits you upon entering, in my case, the Grand Palais. Despite needing to take photos, observe, and absorb the visual and auditory information around me, I was truly and absolutely blown away. And in a good way.

Let's be honest, not everyone is a fan of this fashion house, myself included, but the exhibition is phenomenal from many aspects. The scenography, the dramaturgy—everything is outstanding. Every corner of the space seems meticulously thought out down to the last detail, creating the feeling that I’m not in an exhibition but in a theatrical experience, where fashion blends with art and emotions. This is intensified by the layout of the halls, which transition from one to another through black velvet curtains, revealing the next surprise.

It’s not just a visual feast—it’s an experience that also touches you emotionally. I gained a deeper understanding of this fashion house, its aesthetics, and worldview. Even if I’m not a supporter, it’s impossible to remain indifferent after all this… because I will also be going to Rome, this time without a camera, simply to enjoy it all with my eyes and ears, and to keep it in my memory.

Visitors are introduced to the fashion house's iconic collections through ten thematic rooms—ranging from baroque and Sicilian folklore to contemporary architecture. Great attention is paid to detailed craftsmanship, such as lace, embroidery, embellishments, and gilded details. The exhibition isn’t just about fashion—it also includes traditional art forms: Murano glass, Sicilian basket weaving, and mosaics. Dolce&Gabbana aims to highlight the connection between the heart (creativity) and hands (craftsmanship).

Alongside the garments, sketches, video installations, and documentary footage from the design process are displayed.

Visitors are encouraged to perceive fashion as part of culture and national identity. The designers at Dolce&Gabbana have repeatedly emphasized that fashion must maintain a "human touch"—quality and soul. This idea is particularly highlighted in their exhibitions, where they demonstrate how ideas transform into reality, emphasizing the importance of craftsmanship and manual labor in fashion creation.

Both designers have often expressed that their goal is to inspire and pass on their passion to new generations while preserving authenticity and the significance of handwork in the modern technological world. They believe that fashion is based not only on visual appearance but also on story, feelings, and cultural heritage. This approach is reflected in their collections, which incorporate traditional Italian craftsmanship elements, such as Sicilian ceramics and Murano glass, to create unique and emotionally charged garments.

Thus, Dolce & Gabbana emphasizes that fashion must retain a "human touch"—quality and soul, expressed through craftsmanship, cultural heritage, and personal stories.

The next stop is the iconic La Galerie Dior (26 Avenue Montaigne, Paris​). Opened in 2022, the gallery is located in the historic home of Christian Dior, Maison Dior. As soon as you step into the gallery, it takes your breath away. One of the most impressive features is the staircase "corset spiral," where over 1,800 miniature models are displayed in a collage-like exhibition. And yes, almost every visitor, including me, takes photos there! :)

Now, a bit of "dry" information. This permanent exhibition space is located in the historic headquarters of the Dior fashion house. It offers a glimpse into the world of Christian Dior's heritage and creativity, highlighting the brand's evolution and impact on the fashion industry. The gallery showcases iconic outfits, accessories, sketches, and photographs that illustrate the history and creative process of the Dior fashion house. Visitors can trace the brand's evolution and explore its influence on modern fashion.

It is a permanent exhibition that provides a unique journey through the history of the Dior fashion house. The spaces are designed as scenographic journeys—from Dior's apartment to the atelier. Visitors can view over 100 original outfits from various eras, along with fashion sketches, fabric samples, accessories, and a photo archive. The gallery highlights Dior's five creative directors—from Christian Dior to Maria Grazia Chiuri. The exhibition showcases not just fashion but also Dior's influence on cinema (you can watch film clips featuring couture creations), art, and society.

Speaking of films, do you remember when Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris was screened a few years ago? The main character, if you can say that, is the Dior fashion house. The opening shot of the fashion show in the film isn’t chosen by chance—it reveals Christian Dior's legendary "Bar Suit" from 1947, the outfit that became a symbol of the "New Look" and simultaneously showcased Dior's new fashion vision to the world. The white jacket, with its accentuated narrow waist and voluminous black skirt, takes your breath away—both in the film and in fashion history. This film scene is unique because it features an exact reconstruction of the outfit—designer Jenny Beavan collaborated with Dior archivists to ensure the garment was authentic in silhouette and texture. The result is not only a tribute to Dior's legacy but also a cinematic commentary on the power of fashion—the ability to inspire, surprise, and captivate, even after more than 70 years.

The original "Bar Suit" was presented in Dior's debut collection "Corolle" in February 1947 and was immediately dubbed "the fashion that gave women back their silhouette." At that time, it was radical—offering femininity, luxury, and drama in a world still living under the constraints of wartime austerity.

Moving between the halls, it’s easy to lose track of time because there’s so much information to absorb that you have to choose where to focus your attention. I’m visiting this exhibition for the second time (the first time, I intentionally went without a camera). There is an opportunity to watch the real product being created.

I definitely recommend that if you don’t have a press card or any other privileges, don’t rely on getting tickets by just walking in, as they are usually sold out well in advance. If you’re planning a visit to Paris and want to get here, check availability first at www.galeriedior.com/en, and then buy your plane tickets to avoid disappointment.

And the third great “pillar” (or whale, if you will) – the fashion exhibition at the Louvre – “Louvre Couture. Objets d’art, objets de mode”, at the Louvre Museum, on view until July 21 (written 2025).

The Louvre has, for the first time in its history, fully dedicated space to fashion – an event I simply couldn’t miss. The exhibition genuinely surprised me with its concept: bringing together historical art masterpieces and contemporary haute couture. Around 100 garments (99, to be exact) and accessories from 45 fashion houses – including Chanel, Balenciaga, Yohji Yamamoto, Dolce & Gabbana, Mugler, Comme des Garçons, and Dior – were placed right alongside the Louvre’s paintings and sculptures. Some of the pieces were apparently created specifically for this exhibition.

At times, I felt like I was in some kind of treasure hunt game – the garments blended so seamlessly with the artworks that I ended up circling certain rooms multiple times. And only recently, while writing this, I realized that, out of sheer exhaustion, I completely missed the most beautiful part located in the Napoleon III apartments (which are among the most opulent and least visited spaces in the Louvre). Honestly… might have to go back.

What I loved most was that this wasn’t just a fashion display – each piece was in dialogue with an artwork, an era, or a style. It felt like fashion and art were having a conversation, revealing just how deeply they influence one another. The exhibition design itself was fascinating – the scenography was created by Nathalie Crinière, who also designed the Dior Gallery. The space she created felt thoughtful and harmonious, placing you somewhere between two worlds – past and present.

This exhibition made me look at fashion from a completely different perspective – not just as an aesthetic choice or a trend, but as an art form with equal cultural significance. It’s definitely an experience I’d recommend to anyone – not just fashion enthusiasts, but also lovers of art and culture.

What else would I recommend?

If you’re a fan of good jazz, I highly recommend visiting Paris’s oldest club - Le Bal Blomet. From May to October, there’s also a terrace at the musical boat Peniche Marcounet, where outstanding musicians regularly perform.

If you’re in the mood for a show, then it has to be Crazy Horse Paris! Although it was founded later than the more widely known Moulin Rouge, it stands out with unreal (and yes, I know that word is overused, but there’s just no better way to put it), EXCEPTIONAL and tasteful performances. And yes, it’s erotic – but incredibly artistic, with a strong focus on lighting and choreography. Having spent years in the creative industries, I caught myself not only enjoying the music and performance, but also trying to figure out HOW the lighting designer manages to achieve what they do… on a naked body… and make it all look so elegant. Tickets tend to sell out well in advance, so if you’re up for a slightly crazy night, book ahead.

Gelato from Amorino, the very Instagrammable Pink Mamma (if you make it to the rooftop – even better; reservations are a must unless you enjoy standing in line), treat yourself to a picnic at Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, don’t be afraid to let yourself be a little childish and take a ride on the carousel by the Eiffel Tower – there are so many small moments of joy. I almost always stop by Palais Gallier.

Palais de Tokyo - one of the largest contemporary art centers in Europe. It always offers innovative, sometimes even “crazy” installations. Perfect if you want to see something beyond the classics. In summer, there are elegant cafés where you can enjoy an afternoon cocktail or lunch with a view of the Eiffel Tower, and briefly feel like you belong in the Art Deco era.

Musée Yves Saint Laurent visit BEFORE Dior, so you don’t accidentally end up with a slight sense of disappointment – I’ll admit, I felt that just a tiny bit on my last visit). A small, elegant museum with rotating exhibitions that let you step into the designer’s world – original sketchbooks, dresses, the atelier itself, and that unmistakable Parisian townhouse charm and luxury. (Currently closed until 2027).

Fête de la Musique, when the entire city of Paris turns into one massive stage – from classical to techno. Completely free (which feels almost unbelievable, right?). Just wander from neighborhood to neighborhood and listen.

Paris Plages when the banks of the Seine transform into “urban beaches,” with cultural events, open-air cinema, concerts. Perfect for those evening chill-out moments.

Atelier des Lumières - an immersive digital art experience that really can’t be compared to what we have in Riga. If you’re in Paris with kids this summer, The Little Prince is a great alternative to Disneyland; for adult art lovers, Picasso is a treat. Check for updates before go.

South Pigalle – fewer tourists than around Montmartre, but full of stylish bars, neo-bistros, and small ateliers. Musée de la Vie Romantique – a small, hidden museum with a garden, coffee, and romance in both literature and art (unfortunately closed until 2026, but keep it in mind for the future).

If you’re looking for something a bit different – Galerie Wallworks for urban art and graffiti. Ateliers d’artistes de Belleville – in summer, there are open studio days where you can visit artists in their own spaces (on June, during the White Night, the gallery is open from 20:00 to 1:00). Le Pavillon des Canaux – a cozy café-bar by the canal, with rooms that feel like a home (yes, you can literally sit in a bathtub while working on your laptop…).

As for where to stay, I usually go for two options. In summer, I love renting stylish apartments by the canal – either from a French host we met one summer (after spontaneously booking through Airbnb the day before leaving Deauville), or from a lovely Latvian couple, Agnese and Andrejs, who work in real estate and rent apartments in Paris (IG: rent.apartment.in.paris). Always a warm welcome, safe, and apartments in great neighborhoods.

In any case, I’d suggest not rushing. These days, getting to Paris is a thousand times easier (and more frequent) than it was in my younger years. Paris isn’t a city to “check off” or conquer by walking the most kilometers in a day – it’s a city to feel, to observe, to surrender to. Have a noisette, a glass of wine, sit at a street café, soak in the rhythm of the city, watch the Parisians… and, for a moment, feel like you belong.

Au revoir, mon cher Paris!

Published in the June 2025 issue of Lilita magazine.

Portrait photo: Ieva Lazdiņa